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Travel Philosophy

Embrace Living Cultures

A mistake travel guides — and, subsequently, travelers — frequently make is to act like cultures never change or advance. This is particularly true in Asia, where centuries of Orientalist mystique have left Western travel writers speaking of even minor cultural differences as if they make East and Southeast Asians another species of humanity entirely.

Where a guidebook or tour leader might naturally explore both the modern and the traditional in a city like Amsterdam or Copenhagen or London, proudly drawing the connections between the new and the old, there’s a tendency in Asian travel to pretend like it’s not 2020, like the Silk Road has been newly-established, and like nothing that’s happened in the last 1000 years is worthy of any consideration. Hip young artists reimagining traditional art forms and themes through graffiti? Nope, ancient Buddhist reliquary is the only thing that defines modern Asia. (Maybe if you’re really lucky, Western powers have been involved in a land war and there’s a war museum that merits mention among an itinerary that’s otherwise 98% dynastic pottery and disused temples.)

That is, of course, totally nuts and wouldn’t fly in any more familiar setting. Sure, people go to the Pioneer Living History museum outside of Phoenix to see how early Western US settlers lived. You can have a similar experience at similar attractions in dozens of North American and European cities. But nobody walks away thinking that’s representative of modern life — unless they’re in Asia, where clearly everyone still practices traditional calligraphy and has never heard of a hamburger and dedicates years of their life to a monastic education.

At Crossing the Date Line, it’s my goal to point you to sights and destinations and experiences and foods that will let you experience a fuller range of a place, from the traditional to the bleeding-edge. Too many guides act like a “foreign” culture is by definition static, but most people in every other country are in the 21st century with the rest of us: they’ve heard about cell phones and the Internet and Yeezy and Spotify. There’s a McDonald’s in effectively every major world city. Governments are funding tech startups in college towns you’ve never heard of to serve needs you’ve never had.

You can absolutely better understand a place (whether it’s home or thousands of miles away) by understanding where it came from, but to really understand that place, you should also experience and appreciate where that place is and where it’s going. History’s important, but by definition, it’s only the past.

Some of the greatest things you’ll find across the globe are the mash-ups and modern evolutions driven by creative locals in the present.

We cross the date line to experience living cultures.

Categories
Vancouver

Changing Currency in Vancouver

While many guidebooks, travel blogs, and traveler forums will claim you can easily exchange your money at local banks, that hasn’t been true for a while: from the ubiquitous Royal Bank of Canada to neighborhood credit union chain Vancity, nobody will exchange your foreign currency unless you’re a customer of their bank.

Here are the options that are actually available today:

1. Big Stores

We’re talking large retail stores here. Think Safeway, not Choices or the neighborhood co-op. Thanks to Vancouver’s proximity to the border, many large retailers will accept reasonable amounts of U.S. currency as payment and issue your change in Canadian dollars.

Be a good guest and don’t abuse this privilege; it’s one thing to get a few bucks back while buying some essentials, and another entirely to hand over a $50 for a pack of gum.

2. Currency Exchanges

Perhaps the most obvious option, currency changers generally suffer the same problem as they do much of the world over: they’ve got crazy fees and bad exchange rates. But if you need to exchange larger amounts of currency, they’re your only option. Larger bills will have a better exchange rate. A currency exchanger will also likely be your only option if you’re arriving with non-U.S. currency; despite the city’s substantial Chinese and Japanese populations and popularity with Asian tourists, you’ll be hard-pressed to spend yen or yuan even in Chinatown.

Currency exchanges are plentiful at Vancouver International Airport, but you’ll get much better rates outside of YVR. There are many currency changers in the city, particularly near heavily-touristed areas. Many, though, doesn’t mean you’ll find one open: the city’s exchanges often have extremely limited hours, especially on weekends. If you’re arriving on a red-eye or on a weekend, the airport exchanges may actually be your best option.

Some of the best rates (and longest hours!) in the city can be found at Happy Currency Exchange.

3. Hotels

Nearly any hotel will change at the concierge or reception for ridiculous fees. Many have strict daily limits, and many have stricter limits still for non-guests. If you need local money in short order and don’t mind paying a premium, a hotel can be a lifesaver. (When we were visiting Granville Island, for example, the Granville Island Hotel was the only option to get some cash. The rate wasn’t the best, but it wasn’t horrible, and it let us eat while ATMs and card terminals were down on the island).

The best solution

Don’t travel with much cash! I’m not saying don’t travel with a little emergency money — whether it’s USD or CAD, it never hurts to have a little physical currency to get you out of a jam. But for your day-to-day spending, bring your ATM card and credit cards.

ATMs are ubiquitous in Vancouver, Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted, and in today’s increasingly-global world your bank probably charges an incredibly reasonable interchange fee (if they charge one at all).

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Uncategorized

Holiday 2019 Gear Guide

Gifting season is upon us, and you might have a special traveler you’re shopping for — or need a few ideas that’ll improve your own travels. Here are a few travel-tested favorites from my life.

Pair of Thieves Underwear

The older I get, the less time I have to waste on bad underwear. A pair that bunches up, chafes, gets flappy leg holes, or stays damp is absolutely unforgivable on a long day of travel. Enter Pair of Thieves: available everywhere from Target to Amazon, their excellent “ready for anything” undies feature exceptionally soft waistbands, comfortable and long-lasting fits, and no tags.

As a frequent visitor to humid Asia and a cold-blooded winter layerer, I prefer their performance fabric Cool Breeze (previously SuperFit) line. They also make a Mega Soft (previously SuperSoft) line if you’re sticking to more temperate climes. Cool Breeze isn’t that crappy third-rate performance fabric still used by Big Underwear — it’s breathable, silky soft, moisture-wicking, doesn’t retain funk, and dries quickly on those days where “doing laundry” means a sink wash.

SanDisk Memory Cards

Got a shutterbug in your life? They can never have too many memory cards. SanDisk is the brand I — and many other — professional shooters rely on day in and day out, and their reliability and support is top-notch.

For basic photos, the entry level lines work well, but if your giftee is shooting video or working with a higher-end camera, spring for the Extreme Pro cards: they’re much faster, meaning you can shoot more stills in less time, or shoot HD and 4K video without a hitch.

Microfiber Towel

Douglas Adams had it right: Never leave home without your towel. My brother turned me on to microfiber towels, which have the benefit of being super lightweight, easily packable, crazy absorbent, and incredibly quick-to-dry. Many newer towels are impregnated with silver particles to make them nearly impervious to stank-towel, even if you have to go without washing your towel for a bit.

I’m very partial to the inexpensive Rainleaf Microfiber Towel, available from Amazon; the “small” (16″x32″) size serves as my gym towel, can completely and thoroughly dry this 6’7″ man, and is easily wrapped around nearly any mirrorless or SLR camera as a quick protection from the elements — all while packing down to a roughly 6″x6″ square and weighing less than 3 ounces.

If you need something you can pick up locally, most outdoor stores will have a tried-and-trusted brand of microfiber towel on their shelves. I recommend sticking with one that advertises silver ions; it adds almost nothing to the price but makes for a much nicer travel towel.

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Uncategorized

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